Owner, fruit farmer, and designer extraordinaire, Pattea Torrence, texts me to say that she left drinks—bubbles for us, apple juice and blood orange soda for the kids—chilling on the deck and that I should take Turri road, the scenic route through rolling hills and cattle country, to get to The Bee’s Knees Fruit Farm, located near the scenic California Highway 1 Discovery Route. Torrence is well-known in these parts for restoring the Old Edna Townsite, preserving its provision-supply history, which can be traced back to the 1840’s. When I arrive, I punch in the gate access code and as soon as I drive on the meandering gravel road, flanked with flowering plants and trees, I know I made the right decision to vacation in San Luis Obispo, California, with my family in tow, for some undisturbed social distancing.

A long white fence stretches the length of an orchard, full of mature fruit trees, and my kids squeal when they see the farmhouse, built circa 1916. There’s a wraparound porch, perfect for enjoying a hot cup of coffee in the morning or sipping a glass of wine at night. I already know we’ll be having dinner at the outdoor white wooden table, adorned with garden flowers in Mason jars, with a chandelier hanging in the middle. Red, yellow, and pink rose bushes decorate the front, near an 1800’s barn with a black paneled facade. Blackberries are instantly picked and stuffed in little mouths as my boys go on an edible walking tour, which includes saying hello to the ducks and a lone black cat. A blanket with a pillow is spread out on the lawn, under a tree, with a view of Hollister Peak in the distance.  

“If you need to wash clothing, feel free,” says Torrence. “Snoop, you will find detergent.”

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The inside is an antique haven, with a luxurious spin, and there’s something interesting to look at in every direction. A lamp is perched on a stack of books, perfectly matched; artwork, bordered with natural twigs and dried flora, hangs on the wall; a glass dome keeps lemon madeleines fresh on the kitchen counter; and an antique white dress beautifies the side of a mirror. The fridge is stocked with freshly squeezed orange juice and I note the location of the coffee maker for the following morning. Yes, it’s all very pastoral in style, with nods to nature, which creates a tranquil sigh-inducing environment.

The next morning, we enjoy breakfast outside on the deck then head out for some nearby kayaking in Avila Beach. We meet California-cool Vincent Shay, who owns Avila Beach Paddlesports with his wife Emily. Vincent bubbles over with enthusiasm as he talks about Port San Luis Harbor, the lighthouse (built in 1890 after multiple shipping accidents), the public beach, and all of the marine wildlife that we will see on our paddle.

“Guys, you’ll see sea otters right over there in that kelp bed,” Vincent says. “Paddle up but be sure to ride parallel so that you’re not altering their movement in any way.”

We paddle around a buoy and see a raft of sea otters, make our way toward a floating platform where we can hear sea lions barking at each other, paddle under the pier and head for Smith Island, which is covered in pelicans and other sea birds. Whalers Island, where a whaling station once operated in the mid-1800’s, is next and it’s here that we have a chance to get out of our kayaks to explore the pillow basalt lava rocks and all of the critters that hide in the holes. We walk up the hill to see the Point San Luis Lighthouse and the kids are delighted that a rope swing hangs from a massive tree, with a view of the ocean. We see enormous circular depressions in the distant water and hope it’s a humpback whale.

Paddling all morning has made us hungry so we stop next at Mersea’s Seafood Restaurant, positioned at the end of the dock. I order a blackened fish sandwich, with the catch of the day, on a buttered sourdough bun while my husband tries the Annie’s Veggie Burrito. We sit on colorful stools and watch sea otters and harbor seals swim in the ocean down below while sea lions jockey for position on the platform.

With full bellies, we head back to our farm stay and take a well-deserved siesta. Watching the sun set at Pismo Beach, where surfers dot the waves, is next so we need some down time. Before snuggling deep under a white comforter, I crack open the windows to feel the breeze and look out on the farmstead once more.

“Our fruit trees have been sharing their yummy fruit all season,” says Torrence. “I’m sorry that you missed all the peaches and apricots. We do have blackberries and maybe you’ll find some ripe pears. Apples—not quite yet.”